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Ovoo, B枚kh and lakes In old times, people worshipped the gods, asking for their blessings. In the plains areas, they do it at temples. Here, local people have ovoo, cairns carved out of rocks at the top of mountains and other places. Almost every scenic spot including Huhe Nur has an ovoo at the entrance, large or small. It is customary to stop and circle an ovoo three times going clockwise, in the hope of a safe journey. Following local custom, I picked up a small rock and threw it into the cairn after I finishing circling. Horseback riding is a must for travelers to this area, though these days the local people drive motorbikes or cars instead. Mongolian horses, once known as the best in the world for helping the Mongolian army to conquer the region, are very strong and fiery. The idea of riding one of these horses excited me when I imagined the speed and loyalty of a horse on the battle field. In this region, horsemanship is of the "three manly skills," which also include archery and B?kh, Mongolian wrestling. The locals are born horseback riders. One of the locals showcased his skills of vaulting onto the saddle and standing on the horse while riding. According to the local tradition, airag, or fermented horse milk, is offered along with toasting songs when distinguished guests visit. The host stands at the entry of the yurt and offers a bowl of airag as a guest dismounts from his horse. It seems in the prairie every tradition or custom is reminiscent of Tem眉jin, later known as Genghis Khan, and this one is no exception. It is said that Jamukha, a Mongol military leader who was an anda (childhood friend) and sworn brother to Tem眉jin, plotted to poison Tem眉jin after he rose and unified several tribes. Jamukha prepared a bottle of poisoned wine for Tem眉jin as he arrived for a meeting of the two sides. His father had died from poisoning and he was extremely careful about drinking anything. After dipping his fingers into the bowl, Tem眉jin declared that it should be offered to the sky. He thought Jamukha would give up, but to his disappointment, a second bowl was offered. This one he sacrificed to the earth. The third was offered to the Mongolian ancestors. Jamukha finally gave up and offered untainted airag to his anda. Thousands of years passed and the tradition lives on, but it's not as authentically presented for travelers from the outside world. The songs are still very powerful and pleasing to the ear, and the ceremony is the same as in older times. But wine, less prized than airag, is offered to tourists, and the mood soured when the unfinished portion was poured back into a pot for the next group. Almost every one of these scenic spots is built near a lake. Hulun Buir Prairie gets its name from the nearby Hulun Lake and Buir Lake. Huhe Nur is another, smaller lake in the area. In Mongolian, Huhe Nur means cyan, referring to the blue color of its waters. With the blue sky and white clouds above, and the breeze over the lake, it was a perfect moment to enjoy some food in a yurt with Mongolian songs and performances. Accompanied by traditional horse-head instruments, the performers sing songs from "Father's Prairie, Mother's Lake" to "Hulun Buir, Great Prairie." Upon request, they will also perform Bokh, the exercise that every Mongolian man has practiced since childhood. Mongolian wrestling is perhaps better known through the name of the Naadam festival, which takes place every July. Bokh is the most important part of every Naadam festival. The two wrestlers, often wearing jodag, tight, collarless, short-sleeved jackets and gutal, traditional leather boots, enter the field, imitating the steps of eagles. The winner is announced when any part of his opponent's body above the knee touches the ground. If both fall, another round begins until one is the clear victor. The view of Hulun Lake is breathtaking, as long as you can endure the bumpy three-hour ride to the site. Partly thanks to the bad road, the area around the lake is less developed, reserving its original flavor. Local families spend the weekends there, enjoying picnics and swimming. A border town with Russian flairWhen we got back to the city, I had a whole day to wander around. Manzhouli's downtown area is only a few blocks, making it feel more like a town. In addition to the Russian travelers you meet on every corner, the road signs and neon shop signs in Chinese, Mongolian and Russian remind tourists that they are in a border town of three countries. Due to the global economic recession, the number of Russian travelers and businessmen has decreased in recent years. If not for this, you might forget you are still in China. 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